Mobil 1 Syn. Rear end lub question!?

[Mr. Bueno]

Just bought 3 qts of Mobil 1 75w-90. It is synthetic. My questions are: is the friction modifier included within the gear lube? The back of the bottle doesnt specify, nor does the website.

The gears are going in at 4pm wed. I need info before 2pm on wed.
Thanks guys
Tim

[HORSEpower]

No, you have to buy the friction modifier seperately. Most rear ends don't have a posi, so it serves no purpose to add the friction modifier in. It comes in a little tube, and it's called Posi-Trak.

Kurt

[Mr. Bueno]

rodge, i knew that big guy.

also i have to return that fluid, 75w-90 is too light. great for 3.27 ratios and near there, but the 4.10s will be spinning constantly and at higher rpms. thus a heavier weight oil is in order. 75w-140. Well I am out and around gonna go look for rear lube again!
anyone wanna call me to tell me where I can find amsoil or redline, plz do so.
301-461-1081
Tim

[HORSEpower]

rodge, i knew that big guy.

also i have to return that fluid, 75w-90 is too light. great for 3.27 ratios and near there, but the 4.10s will be spinning constantly and at higher rpms. thus a heavier weight oil is in order. 75w-140. Tim

That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard. Who told you that? Go down to the autoparts store, and grab the cheapest stuff off the shelf and some friction modifier. It's 2 friggin huge gears, it doesn't matter.

Kurt

[Mr. Bueno]

Ok well got the Valvoline Sythetic 85-140. (3qts)
And the friction modifier that you suggested. I think it is powertrac/Positrac or something. Discount and Autozone were out, had to go to Napa, and last resort was action performance. I ended up getting it at Napa.

I also got a gasket too.
Kurt not trying to make it all a big deal about it, just talking about it thats all. Giving you play by plays.

There will be extra heat from the 4.10s, you cant argue with that. Also the 140W gives extra protection and keeps the fluid thick when hot, and thus extra protection. But in any regards, the guy who is the mechanic, who is doing the install told me to get 80w-140. So I did just that

Leaving here in 1hr or so, so I will check the posting up til 3pm.
Tim

[HORSEpower]

You won't even be able to measure the heat difference.
There is no added friction in the gear itself, just in the bearings, which is immeasurable.

Kurt

[LethalBird]

U don't wanna use synthetic oil with new gears. Put them in and use regular oil till they break in and then use synthetic.

[HORSEpower]

U don't wanna use synthetic oil with new gears. Put them in and use regular oil till they break in and then use synthetic.

I take back what I said about Pierce's comment. Now that's the most ridiculous thing I've heard. It's a rearend, not a motor.

Kurt

[Mr. Bueno]

yea, wtf is he talking about kurt?

Eddie, speak from knowledge, not what you THINK.

FYI gears were installed, and the mechanic said Valvoline 95W-140 SYNTHETIC is good shit and I chose wisely


Eddie, sorry bro, but this one is for you babe!................ :bs:

Tim

[LethalBird]

Motor or not..........the instructions that came with my rearend from Moser emphasized that I use non-synthetic oil for the first 500-1000miles with the new gears. Also when Volusia drivetrain did my 4:10s in the stock rearend, they said the same thing. We used no-synthetic oil for the first 500miles before I put synthetic in it. It wont cost u much anyways and its a very simple task to do, so what do u got to lose?

but hey, what the hell Moser and Volusia drivetrain know

[HORSEpower]

Apparently not much.

Kurt

[Mr. Bueno]

i agree

[LethalBird]

I don't know why I'm waisting my breath, I thought I came to the conclusion that Kurt is stubern and his whole world is revolving around one yellow car.

[HORSEpower]

If Volusia drivetrain new what they were doing, then why do I hear about people driving out of there with fucked up rearends. And if Moser knew what they were doing, then why did you have to weld brackets onto your bolt in rear end. Nobody knows anything. When it comes to cars, the only way to do it right is to do it yourself.

Kurt

[Mr. Bueno]

the only way to do it, is to do it yourself.

And correctly,

Kurt.... :cheers: WIth ya baby
Tim

[LethalBird]

I drove out of there with fine rearend, JB drove out of ther with good rearend, and Mustang Convt Nick drove out of there with good rearend.
Apparently u hear stuf from ur ass :lol:

Moser is a very reputable company and by mentioning this bracket thing u deomstrate great lack of knowledge. The world doesn't revolve only around one yellow Mustang.

The brackets never come with the rearend for several good reasons. First, Moser knows that if u buy a strong rearend like a 12bolt, chances u have a stock back sway bar are slim. So they leave it open for ur specification. Second its 10 times easier to put the break lines without these brackets welded. Third and most important, lots of people don't have stock suspension when they buy a 12bolt.........many things move and flex, so the place of the brackets could be different from one car to the other.

[Luke01GT]

well I was just under my car putting the cut-outs back in to make her quiet, and I noticed that my rearend said SYNTHETIC ONLY in bold print.

[LethalBird]

point is? :confused:

[Luke01GT]

what do you mean point is? this thread is about whether or not to use synthetic or not?

[HORSEpower]

I drove out of there with fine rearend, JB drove out of ther with good rearend, and Mustang Convt Nick drove out of there with good rearend.
Apparently u hear stuf from ur ass :lol:

Moser is a very reputable company and by mentioning this bracket thing u deomstrate great lack of knowledge. The world doesn't revolve only around one yellow Mustang.

The brackets never come with the rearend for several good reasons. First, Moser knows that if u buy a strong rearend like a 12bolt, chances u have a stock back sway bar are slim. So they leave it open for ur specification. Second its 10 times easier to put the break lines without these brackets welded. Third and most important, lots of people don't have stock suspension when they buy a 12bolt.........many things move and flex, so the place of the brackets could be different from one car to the other.

The point is that they told you it was a bolt in when they were talking out of their ass. And this isn't about my one yellow mustang, I have worked on many cars with many performance parts from many different manufufacturers. I've worked on imports, domestics, old school, new school, mustangs, camaros, rotaries, pistons. You name it. Trust me, just because it's a reputable company and they've done one or two things that are good, doesn't mean they have an in depth understand of how metals react to each other. Most of the people who make instructions are not the professionals who design the stuff. Ever call a tech line for anything. Those people are oblivious. That's because if they actually knew something, they would be designing stuff, not answering annoying customer's answers for $8/hr. If you ever read Zen and the Art of Motorcyle Maintenance, the author explains it pretty well. When it comes time to make the instructions sold with the rear end, they pull the dummest guy off the assembly line, and he is rushed into preparing whatever he can for the customer.

Kurt

[LethalBird]

Kurt, I can't deny that I asked u for advice on bunch of things before. However, all ur ideas never worked, don't exist, or doesn't make any difference. I'll take my chances with Moser and Volusia Drive train.

Also another peace of knowledge for u.......in the science of logistics there is something called life cycle of the product. Life cycle is simply the life span of the product from the time it leaves the manufactirer till the time it expires. Big part of the life cycle is the manufacturer support and warranty to that product after the customer pays for it. A good example for that would be what u did for living.......selling parts. Now u gonna say that most parts u sold are aftermarket parts anyways and not even produced by the builder of the product. Its true in most cases, but the support of the product is set for a certain period and then the company moves on to another product and another support. Thats how the whole aftermarket industry was developed coz if the manufacturer of the product doesn't support it, somebody else will. In many cases, actually in most cases, support for the product works through conjuction of all parties that devolped that product. So I don't beleive that those instructions were pulled out of anybody's ass. Also the instructions included with any part is part of that support and its content is very important coz it reflects the compay's image and its way of taking care of its customers. Things could be done differently from one company to other, but usually big companies do their homework. Dell computers for example put its counterpart Gateway in the dust simply coz their customer support was of a higher standard. U make the sutomers happy and they will come back.

...u tend to always think that if its not on ur car it no good. Thats exactly the type of person that wont affect my opinion or my actions.

[HORSEpower]

Whatever.

[Cheesesteak]

Kurt, I can't deny that I asked u for advice on bunch of things before. However, all ur ideas never worked, don't exist, or doesn't make any difference. I'll take my chances with Moser and Volusia Drive train.

Also another peace of knowledge for u.......in the science of logistics there is something called life cycle of the product. Life cycle is simply the life span of the product from the time it leaves the manufactirer till the time it expires. Big part of the life cycle is the manufacturer support and warranty to that product after the customer pays for it. A good example for that would be what u did for living.......selling parts. Now u gonna say that most parts u sold are aftermarket parts anyways and not even produced by the builder of the product. Its true in most cases, but the support of the product is set for a certain period and then the company moves on to another product and another support. Thats how the whole aftermarket industry was developed coz if the manufacturer of the product doesn't support it, somebody else will. In many cases, actually in most cases, support for the product works through conjuction of all parties that devolped that product. So I don't beleive that those instructions were pulled out of anybody's ass. Also the instructions included with any part is part of that support and its content is very important coz it reflects the compay's image and its way of taking care of its customers. Things could be done differently from one company to other, but usually big companies do their homework. Dell computers for example put its counterpart Gateway in the dust simply coz their customer support was of a higher standard. U make the sutomers happy and they will come back.

...u tend to always think that if its not on ur car it no good. Thats exactly the type of person that wont affect my opinion or my actions.
sorry but i started to daydream... did you say to use synthetic?

[Mr. Bueno]

I used Valvoline Synthetic 85w-140, plus friction modifier.

As per direction of the ford mechanic.

No problems as yet.
TP

[HORSEpower]

TP has a good point. You're going to get a different opinion from every person you go to. If it were really important, like an engine, there would only be fact, no opinion.

Kurt

[Mr. Bueno]

rodger that Grenning :headbang:

[LethalBird]

There are lots of opinions about engines too and a good example would be the break-in procedures. When my car was done, I had 500 different opinions on how I should break my motor.

[HORSEpower]

I bet. But I'm sure everyone had 2 things in common, don't run it hard, and don't put synthetic oil in it. The important stuff never changes.

Kurt

[Mr. Bueno]

just too funny. :spit:

[HeloPilot]

I put the Mobil Syntheyic in my rear (the stuff mentioned at the beginning of the thread), as prescribed by everyone on Mustangworld. No probs.

Rich

[Grannynational]

Frition additive is only added to reduce the noise coming out of the rear end. It decreases the effects of a limited slip rearend.

Say its BS but its been proven to me by sombody else.

I use mobil 1 gear lube without the additive.

Joe

[Mr.Nitrous]

dam that's the only smart comment on here. You are right about the add., it helps it to reduce the noise.

[HORSEpower]

Frition additive is only added to reduce the noise coming out of the rear end. It decreases the effects of a limited slip rearend.

Say its BS but its been proven to me by sombody else.

I use mobil 1 gear lube without the additive.

Joe

Damn straight. It has nothing to do with the longevity of the rear end.

Kurt