Wet Kit

[thickstunalexndr]

I need some expertise...would this wet kit be an ok buy?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33740&item=7917646641&sspagename=rvi%3A1%3A1


I think this includes the pressure gauge and arming switch. I know alot about nitrous like getting the maf recalibrated and getting diff. fuel injectors for more spray, but I'm not too familiar with this kit. I also know wet kits have a tendency to pool up in the intake, but seems like an uncommon problem...the kit seems simple to me, I just need a lookover to see if there's anything I'm missing or need to consider when buying this particular kit...




Thoughts?

[4U 2 NV]

Cold fusion is a newer nitrous company out there. i would say for the Price, NO.i wouldnt touch anything unless it was NX, TNT, or Edlebrock(i think). which everone uses the same solenoid as NX, i know TNT does. Yes it will work but NX guarentees there solenoids not to hang or fail. does this company?

[Ponyperformance6]

You will need to make some modifications becase of the returnless fuel system. (I believe) It isn't just a straight-forward install.

[Stang8YourImport]

It looks like a good kit. As long as you go with a wet kit and keep it at about a 100 shot, you shouldn't need another pump or a boost-a-pump. I don't even think they make a dry kit for a returnless style 99- Mustang since they work off the regulator... which you don't have. You just tap for extra fuel from the test port on the fuel rail. As long as you kept it 100 and less, you should be able to straight up install it. You don't wanna go part 100-125 because the nitrous is so cold, and your plastic intake is so hot, that the temp difference can cause it to break, which would suck. Sounds good though.

Nick

[Ponyperformance6]

It looks like a good kit. As long as you go with a wet kit and keep it at about a 100 shot, you shouldn't need another pump or a boost-a-pump. I don't even think they make a dry kit for a returnless style 99- Mustang since they work off the regulator... which you don't have. You just tap for extra fuel from the test port on the fuel rail. As long as you kept it 100 and less, you should be able to straight up install it. You don't wanna go part 100-125 because the nitrous is so cold, and your plastic intake is so hot, that the temp difference can cause it to break, which would suck. Sounds good though.

Nick
Yeah the Plastic Intakes on 4.6L's have a bad tendancy of breaking on their own after a while, Nitrous could just help speed that along.

[Grannynational]

Does anybody know anything about spraying a dry shot before the MAF? would that work? I've seen it on a 02 Camaro SS and the guy said it worked great.

Joe

[Stang8YourImport]

You can, but the closer you get it to the runners themselves... the better. If you spray it that far infront of the throttle body, it has more time to liquify... You want it to be gas... So you want it to be introduced into the inlet system as close to the valves as possible... Thus the Fogger kit (individual nossles for each port) is the best kit.. It's direct and it as close to the intake valve and combustion chamber as possible.

Nick

[Stang8YourImport]

I could also see the force of the nitrous, if directed at the MAF, hurting the monitoring wires in the maf... I wouldn't suggest before the maf at all... For your car... get the kit with the plate that goes after the throttle body.

Nick

[maximumvelocity]

You don't want to spray a wet kit before the maf, a dry is more suited for running before the maf to compensate for the extra oxygen that is passed through which the maf reads. the fuel from a wet kit can (and probably will) screw up the readings on the maf. but you don't want it too close nor too far from the maf for a better reading.

[Stang8YourImport]

A MAF reads somewhere around 1-5 volts.. The reading is made by heating the element in the MAF and the air going by the element causes it to cool down. That's the reading... 5 being hot, 1 being cold... the spray would totally negate the reading of the maf... It would obviously drop to 1 instantly once super cold nitrous hits it... Basically telling the computer that the engine is sucking in more air then it really is by cooling the element.

Nick

[02blackwingss]

grenatelli makes a maf calibrated for dry nitrous kit so you can spray before the maf.

i have never seen it used though

[HORSEpower]

Spraying before the MAF tricks the computer into adding extra fuel, but it is not a very accurate way to meter the fuel. Those kits usually don't work so well. I remember that The Nitrous Works was one of the first companies to do that.

Kurt

[4U 2 NV]

On LS1s people make more power on wet shots.

[Ponyperformance6]

wet shots are generally better ideas all the way around, more power/safer, etc. However they care harder to install thats the only thing.

Will

[HORSEpower]

Dry kits are better, but you can't spray as much. Max you can do on a dry kit is 225, and you can't use it on a returnless fuel system. Dry kits are a lot safer.

Kurt

[Stang8YourImport]

Lesson be learned.... If it's not what Kurt has.. It's horrible... possibly the worst thing on the face of the earth. Wet kits are more complicated... but they ARE better. You can't dispute the sheer number of professionals using dry kits vs wet... Dry's are used rarely... and have to be majorly modified to spray 225... And you have to have a HUGE fuel pump.. Not one, like 3 to flow that much pressure to keep up with the amount of nitrous... Try to flow 225 more hp worth of fuel then injectors are designed to flow... Hum... That doesn't sound safe.

Nick

[HORSEpower]

Oh, I'm not knocking wet kits. Everything has it's place. If you are running serious nitrous, you have to run a wet kit. You can't run a dry kit on most cars. Dry kits are slightly safer, but the difference is marginal if you know what you are doing.

Kurt

[TheSean]

dry does have a limit.. and wet can be just as safe, just use 2 solenoids on each feed. I have a "dry" but it doesnt change the fuel pressure, just the injector duty cycle, but id have to rechip it to run any higher than 50 i discovred, because i have 68, yes 68lb injectors. Im selling the venom kit ($1200new) and making direct port or just dumping that into bigger turbos (or turbO...mmmmmmm... t51r)

kurt, why do you think dry is safer? i did a BUNCH or research early this year on n2o. I think im copetant now.

[HORSEpower]

There is less chance of fuel builiding up in the intake. The best way to avoid that is to make sure you have really smooth runners, and the port match is done well. That comes under knowing what you are doing. Dry kits also atomize better, because they use electronic injectors instead of spray rails. That ensures a smoother burn. I have also found dry kits to be easier to tune.

Kurt

[Stang8YourImport]

Let me be the first to say Drys are much easier to tune... My wet kit is turning into a bitch to tune. Puddling into the intake is mostly caused by too much fuel being introduced vs the amount of nitrous... aka tuning. I'd run a dry kit if it was a small shot, but anything large... over 100 I'd run a wet.. Just personal preferance.

Nick

[Mr.Nitrous]

Sorry I haven't been able to answer I've been real busy.There is alot of wrong info being posted here. Just be careful on what you do. If you really need an answer just give me a call at work ACTION PERFORMANCE 252-2632 ask for Dennis

[TheSean]

i didnt post anything wrong.. so what was???

[Mr.Nitrous]

i didnt post anything wrong.. so what was???
Didn't say that you were posting anything wrong, others are. Not trying to pick a fight but, there are no needs to mod. a returnless fuel system.As to Joe, the maf spraying works well, have a friends car that runs 11.8 on a dry nos system that sprays the maf on a other wise stock camaro.Nick, nitrous comes out in a liquid state than turns into a gas form.As for the tuning of your car it doesn't even compare as for you are tuning the the motor and nitrous as one, not tuning the motor and than adressing the nitrous tune seperatly.

[Stang8YourImport]

I know this... Me running the dyno wasn't a tuning run... I just wanted to see. I know what I need to do. Where did this come from? And as far as going from liquid to gas.... I already said that.

Nick

[jeremy]

No, you said the opposite of that.


If you spray it that far infront of the throttle body, it has more time to liquify... You want it to be gas... So you want it to be introduced into the inlet system as close to the valves as possible...


It's never going to reliquify. It's in the bottle as a liquid, comes out as a liquid/gaseous mix, and turns completely to gas as it warms to ambient temperature.

Also, the further from the port, the more time it has to atomize, and the better mixture you get; however, this also causes the charge to heat up so you loose some of the intercooling effect. The only reason a fogger mixes better is because of it's superior metering and better anular/soft plume nozzles. It has nothing to do with how close the nozzles are to the valves.

[Mr.Nitrous]

Let me be the first to say Drys are much easier to tune... My wet kit is turning into a bitch to tune.
Nick
That's were that came from. Thanks for the reply jeremy

[Stang8YourImport]

Yeah... I was wrong. Dunno why I said that... I know better. Brain fart.

Nick

[HORSEpower]

I don't know. I have had friends that had trouble with some NitrousWorks systems that sprayed in front of the MAF. Not enough to blow the motor, but definately some bad numbers, and some funny looking sparkplugs.

Kurt

[Grannynational]

I woulnt spray the wet kit infront of a MAF only the dry.

Joe

[Mr.Nitrous]

yes, you can only spray a dry system in the maf.

[TheSean]

ilookd up the thermodynamic pressure-volume (constant temp line) chart for nitrous oxide. There is 0% chance it will ever re-liquify in your engine. Its a vapor at all normal pressures and earthly temperatures, sorry. It doesnt just 'fall out' like water.

[Stang8YourImport]

For one I already stated I had a brain fart...

Two... I just "looked up" how gay you are. :) Also said your car's slow and will never run again...?? Sounds about right.

[TheSean]

fuck you nick, my car was faster stock than your POS.

id link you to the chart, but your eyes would cross, its higher level physics. Go clean some more carpets you white trash peice of shit. And take your shitty ass 350whp out my face, im too high class for youre simpleton bullcrap.

otherwise, have a great day.

i was just posting that shit to back up what has been said but no proven. Just because so and so says that such chemical does this doesnt mean shit. Unless theyve presented documented lab results, its just heresay. I can back up every single statement i made with scientific proof. Can you? Didnt think so. so step off bitch.

:)

Sean

[jeremy]

Just because so and so says that such chemical does this doesnt mean shit. Unless theyve presented documented lab results, its just heresay.

Unless that so and so is me, because if it is you can take it as fact.

[TheSean]

jeremy... ok.

also, ive been corrected, 310WHP. My car came with 320CHP, oh man this is great.

[Stang8YourImport]

Clean carpet? Haven't done that in a while... And white trash? I dunno, but you're the one acting like white trash here. Your so cool man. I love it how people talk trash on the internet, yet would never dream to do it in person.

[Brazen6.0]

screw TNN, I'm watching this...

:lol:

[TheSean]

tell scic that :-D

its a joke bro, chill.

[Cracker Red]

Hey Dennis. What kind of shot could I spray on a 390 that is stock?

Next time you are in town there SK guy, hows about you swing by an scic meeting. I'll talk to you.

[toastychicken]

Its only a parking lot guys...not like there's a huge effort to put out to "swing by" each other's meetings :)

[Cracker Red]

Its only a parking lot guys...not like there's a huge effort to put out to "swing by" each other's meetings :)


WERD!

Now, on to more important things.. No2, in the LTD (390).... I don't wanna blow it up, but I do wanna get that big barge in the 13's :-D

[jeremy]

Dude it's going to take 2 JATO rockets to get that thing down to the 15's. Might I suggest you start with a 500 shot and move up from there. Something like this will be in order. It's adjustable from 400-1200 HP.

[Cracker Red]

DAMN man...it ain't gonna be that hard! :)
holley 750/PI intake, headers, 3.75's go 14.4, or so the other guys timeslip says. I just want a little bit more than that.

oh yea HOGANS in da house !

[Mr.Nitrous]

Hey Dennis. What kind of shot could I spray on a 390 that is stock?

Next time you are in town there SK guy, hows about you swing by an scic meeting. I'll talk to you.
As long as the motor is in good running shape, put some 93 octane in the tank and get a good plate system. A 125 or a 150 shot should be a good safe starting point.

[Cracker Red]

Awesome. Thats what I was hopeing for. I know it's not a galaxie or a torino, but hey, it's what I've got, and it's a big block.

Anyone around here do good machine work on heads, flow bench, etc.. ?

[HORSEpower]

Calling a 390 a big block is like saying a Cadillac 500 is a big block. Yeah, it's a big block, but it's not the same as a Big Block Chevy. Those things have almost no performance potential.

Kurt

[TheSean]

well what is it???

[Cracker Red]

360/390/427/428.. all the same block casting if I'm not mistaken. No potential there ehh...umm...err...Look around online. Lots of guys making 600+ hp on FE motors. And no, I'm not building a race car. The car is to cruise and have fun with.

I just wanted to know if I could put a little spray on it, thats all dude! Although, swapping in a 460, back-halfing the car and putting a blower with a bug catcher out of the hood might be kewl...I'm just lacking the 20K right now to do that ;)

SK - It's a 70 LTD. Big, green, 2 door sled.

[HORSEpower]

Yeah, ask those guys how much money they have in them. The 390s came with dog heads.

Kurt

[Cracker Red]

edlebrock alloy heads man! Or some blue thunders... You are a ford driver right? You know how much ford stuff costs.

[HORSEpower]

I want to build a 512 CSE FE motor with a 96mm turbo and a 300 shot. They are good motors, but they are expensive to build. God I hate being broke.

Kurt

[Cracker Red]

I want to build a 512 CSE FE motor with a 96mm turbo and a 300 shot. They are good motors, but they are expensive to build. God I hate being broke.

Kurt

DAMN.

I did find a limited production motor. a SOHC 427 nascar motor, makes 675hp at 7000rpm. Guy only wants 18000 for it! :)

Big motors are $$$, ford motors are $$$$$, and big ford motors are even more $$$$$$$$

[jeremy]

DAMN.

I did find a limited production motor. a SOHC 427 nascar motor, makes 675hp at 7000rpm. Guy only wants 18000 for it! :)

Big motors are $$$, ford motors are $$$$$, and big ford motors are even more $$$$$$$$

I'd say production would be VERY limited since NASCAR doesn't allow engines larger then 358ci or any overhead cam motor.

[HORSEpower]

They did allow bigger motors back in the 70s. If you have $18000, I would bye that motor on the spot. That is a classic, but it has no common parts with an FE motor.

Kurt

[Cracker Red]

They did allow bigger motors back in the 70s. If you have $18000, I would bye that motor on the spot. That is a classic, but it has no common parts with an FE motor.

Kurt

If I had 18K to buy a motor, I wouldn't be playing around with an old sled though. I'm thinking ultima GTR, 18K would be a good start on the kit :)

[TheSean]

just sell it and put the 18k down on a poopra or LS1 vette if you wanna just make asstons of horsepower. Or an 03 cobra if you like shitty cars with lots of power.