AC clutch not kicking on -Getting really pissed

[HORSEpower]

Well, I've been working on this problem for awhile now, and it is starting to irritate me. I can't get my AC clutch to kick on. I changed the clutch, and it will now kick on if I hotwire it with a car battery. When I bridge the cycle switch there is 14 volts of power at the pigtail for the clutch. Four seasons recommended that I replace I diode upstream from the pigtail, because they said if it wasn't working the clutch would get 14 volts but the flow would be wrong. I put a new diode in, and nothing has changed. Anyone have any new suggestions.

Kurt

[Brazen6.0]

Air by Arm Strong

:)

[Brazen6.0]

ice cubes in the vents

:)

[HORSEpower]

Air by Arm Strong

:)

That's what I have now. I'm trying to upgrade.

Kurt

[HORSEpower]

I also tested the resistance on the ground, and the power wire. There is zero resistance on the wires. There is 3.7 ohms of resistance on the coil when tested at the coil, and upstream, so there is no fault in the pigtail. The manufactures says the coil should have 3 to 4 ohms of resistance, so it is right on par.

Kurt

[customcarmaker]

Whats the year on the car again? I have an idea.

[HORSEpower]

93'

[Ed]

Here's your solution.

http://www.dcm-mfg.com/Maradyne/DashFan.gif

[customcarmaker]

Hey kurt try this. The dark-blue/white wire is the hot wire. It also branches to the protection diode, and the other side of diode goes to ground. The black wire goes to chassis ground. Both the diode ground, and the black wire terminate at G101 (Front of right fender apron). If you applied the 12V+ to the wrong (black) wire, it could have compromised the circuit.
The above info applies to the standard 1.9L

[customcarmaker]

Heres another one kurt. Its for a civic but i think it might still help out. Could be the RPM sensor in the compressor. If it cycles to much, or the belt is loose it will shut the compressor down. Check the belt tension, and it shouldn't cycle much at all with an expansion valve system.. You may be overcharged or have a faulty condenser fan..Any of these problems will cut the compressor to often causing the RPM sensor to read a problem...If you have a tach, disconnect it and see if the problem goes away

[customcarmaker]

Hey check the relay. See if any of these things help.

[HORSEpower]

I checked all that stuff already Steve. I even replaced the diode.

Kurt

[customcarmaker]

I thought it might help. Have you fixed it yet?

[HORSEpower]

Nope. Still racking my brain.

Kurt

[HORSEpower]

The issue has been resolved. It was due to a weak relay. To my amazement, the relay was able to put out 14 volts, but not able to deliver enough current to make the clutch work. It's a one in a million chance that a relay will fail and still deliver voltage.

Kurt

[LSWon00]

Check the systems static pressure. If its not at spec then the system won't engage meaning the clutch won't engage. This could be one of a few problems, but maybe worth checking.

[HORSEpower]

I was bridging the cycle switch with a wire. I got the clutch to kick on, but now my suction and my head pressure is too high. I got air in the system, because a valve leaked on me. I am going to change the valve, flush the system out with the flush stuff, and try again.

I called 4 seasons again, but they weren't too much help. Brad, about what do you think my suction and head pressure should be on this car?

Kurt

[LSWon00]

Low Side (Suction): 24-32
HIgh Side: 150-250 depending upon ambient air temp

[HORSEpower]

Low Side (Suction): 24-32
HIgh Side: 150-250 depending upon ambient air temp

Yeah, it's way the fuck over that. The low was at like 90, and the high almost pegged the gauge (450). That and the compressor doesn't kick off at all. I must have a huge blockage, or the gauges on my thing are fucked up. It was like instant so it wasn't from too much gas.

Kurt

[LSWon00]

Yeah you got some problems then.

[HORSEpower]

Yeah, I don't get it at all. I know I have a little air in the system, but it shouldn't be that bad.

Kurt

[HORSEpower]

Ok, I sucked it dry over night, which took forever, because my compressor sucks balls, and can't keep up with the vacuum pump. I filled it up again the morning, and at first the head pressure was fine, like 220, but the suction was still like 90. I shut it off for a couple of minutes. I thought the gas pressure might be a little high, so I let a little out, and guess what, the head pressure shot back up to 450 again, and was real irrattic. I am again at a loss for words. I think my equipment might not be up to the task. I might have to pay someone to fill it for me.

Before I filled it, I ran flush through the condensor and the liquid line, and the blew it out with air. It seemed to flow just fine, so I don't think there is a blockage anywhere.

Kurt